The short answer
A fake IW323704 is a copy of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic in stainless steel. The better first copies get the case profile and the five bezel screws close enough to pass at arm's length. They fail on the details that need real tooling: end-link fit, engraving depth, date magnification, dial print, hand finishing, and movement decoration. Judge the watch against documented photos and measurements of an original, not against another replica, and treat paperwork and price as evidence in their own right.
What to have on the bench
- Macro photos of a known-original IW323704: dial, caseback, clasp, end links.
- Digital calipers and a gram scale.
- A 10x loupe and a bright, raking light.
- The published reference data for IW323704 from IWC: diameter, thickness, bracelet type, dial variants.
Step-by-step check
- Write down the published specs for IW323704, meaning case diameter, thickness, lug or end-link width, bracelet type, and the dial colors offered. Keep the list next to the watch.
- Measure the case with calipers at 12 to 6 and at 3 to 9, then measure thickness across the caseback. Replicas often run 0.3 to 0.8 mm off, and thickness is the harder number to fake.
- Weigh the watch head on the gram scale and note the figure. Compare it with a documented original on the same bracelet. A light case usually means a plated base-metal core.
- Count and inspect the bezel screws under the loupe. Check slot depth, slot orientation, and how flush each screw sits in its recess. Look for tool chatter around the slots.
- Examine the dial print at 10x. Check the weight of the brand lettering, letter spacing, the size of the model line, and whether the print sits flat or shows a raised edge.
- Look at the date window and its magnification. The numeral should fill the aperture without clipping, and the window edge should be cut clean, not stamped.
- Check the hands and lume under raking light. Original hands are polished on the bevels with crisp inner edges; copies show rounded edges and uneven lume fill.
- Flex the bracelet and watch the end links. On an original the first link follows the case curve with a tight, even gap on both sides. Copies show wider gaps on one side and side-to-side play.
- Open and close the clasp, then read the engraving inside it with the loupe. Deep, crisp stamping with even baseline alignment is expected; shallow laser etching with fuzzy edges is not.
- Turn the watch over and study the caseback engraving. Reference and serial numbers should be cut, not printed, with consistent depth and no double outline.
- Run the watch on a timegrapher and note rate, amplitude, and beat error in several positions. Wild spread between positions points to an unregulated clone movement.
- Match the box, warranty card, and hang tag against the serial on the case. Confirm the card's reference matches IW323704 exactly, including the full stop format IWC uses.
- Compare the asking price with the current secondary market for a documented original. A price far below market with a story attached is the oldest signal there is.
Red flags
- Seller photos that avoid the caseback, clasp, or end links.
- Serial numbers that repeat across listings.
- Dial print that looks bolder or tighter than reference photos.
- Bezel screws that are not flush or sit at random angles.
- Bracelet screws with soft heads or burred slots.
- A refusal to provide a timegrapher reading.
- Paperwork printed on stock card with no dealer stamp.
Legality and ownership risk
In the US, counterfeit watches infringe the trademark owner's rights, and import and sale are illegal. Shipments are subject to seizure at the border. A first copy also cannot be serviced by IWC or an authorized center, carries no warranty, and resells for a fraction of what you paid. Weigh those costs before you treat a replica as a stand-in for the real reference.