A fake IW323730 is a replica of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic reference IW323730. The convincing ones copy the case profile, the integrated bracelet and the dial layout. The weak ones give themselves away at the dial print, the date window, the bracelet fit and the caseback engraving. Run those four checks first, then move on to the movement and the paperwork.

Set the baseline before you look at the watch

Pull the official specification for IW323730 first. You need the case diameter and thickness, the caliber number, the water resistance rating, the crystal type and the bracelet reference. Write the numbers down. A replica either matches them or it does not, and calipers settle that in under a minute.

Inspection checklist

  1. Measure the case with digital calipers across the bezel and the caseback. Any deviation of half a millimeter or more from the published figure is a fail.
  2. Examine the dial text with a 10x loupe. Genuine print has sharp, evenly spaced strokes with no bleeding at the edges. Replica print looks thick, uneven or slightly doubled.
  3. Look at the date window. The aperture should be crisp and correctly centered, and the date font should match the reference exactly. Crooked apertures and fat numerals are common on fakes.
  4. Check the applied indices and hands under angled light. They should sit flat, align with the minute track and carry an even lume fill with no overflow onto the metal.
  5. Flex the bracelet at each link. Genuine end links meet the case with a tight, uniform gap. Replicas show a wider gap on one side and screws that sit proud of the link surface.
  6. Inspect the crown. The logo engraving should be deep, centered and clean. Check that the crown screws down smoothly and that the threads are not gritty.
  7. Turn the watch over. Caseback engraving on a genuine piece is crisp and shallow with sharp letter edges. Laser-etched replicas look soft or sandblasted.
  8. Open the caseback only with the seller's consent. Look for correct caliber markings, proper rotor engraving, blued or polished screws and clean perlage. Loose tolerances and glue residue are disqualifying.
  9. Wind and set the watch. The crown should move through positions with defined clicks, the hands should track with no wobble and the date should flip clean at midnight.
  10. Match the serial and reference numbers between the caseback, the warranty card and the box. Numbers that do not line up, or paperwork printed on the wrong stock, indicate a replica with a fabricated set.

Price is a test on its own

Compare the asking price against current secondary market listings for the reference. A figure far below the market range for the condition described is the strongest single signal that you are looking at a fake. Ask why the price sits where it does and listen to the answer.

Questions to put to the seller

  • Ask for a close-up photo of the caseback and the movement, taken today.
  • Ask which caliber the watch carries and whether it has been serviced.
  • Ask for the original purchase paperwork and the service history.
  • Ask whether a return is accepted after inspection by a watchmaker.

If any answer is vague, or the seller refuses an inspection, walk away. A genuine reference survives scrutiny. A replica does not.